Leopard Gecko Care Sheet
Introduction
The Leopard Gecko originates from Pakistan, Afghanistan and northwestern India. They are nocturnal which means they should be active mostly at night but during the day they tend to be inquisitive and take a wander around their homes to see what's going on. Leopard Geckos are one of the hardiest of the gecko species available, combining this with the fact that their husbandry is quite simple and even beginners can have great success in keeping and breeding this interesting species of gecko makes this reptile an ideal choice for beginners and experts alike. Leopard Geckos can reach 10-12 inches and are quite a long lived species, usually living for between 15-20 years.
Housing
Leopard gecko set ups are generally quite simple and easily maintained. babies will require a small plastic container with a tight fitting lid (The largest Exo Terra Faunarium is ideal), a heat mat at one end, a small thermostat to regulate the temperature, some beech chippings to use as substrate, two small hides (one at each end) and a water bowl.
An adult leopard gecko will require a 24”x15”x15” wooden Vivarium, with a spot bulb and bulb guard (to avoid burns) and a dimming thermostat to regulate the temperature. Again they will need two hides (of appropriate size), substrate and a water bowl. You should also provide several vines and branches to create a more stimulating environment for your gecko.
Maintenance
Leopard Gecko Vivariums are easily kept clean. You should “spot clean” the Vivarium daily and remove any obvious mess. The Vivarium should be cleaned out around once a month. The chippings should be discarded and the whole Vivarium and all decorations should be disinfected (Cascade reptile disinfectant is ideal)
Feeding
Leopard geckos are carnivores, and should be fed a diet consisting of crickets, locusts and mealworms. The insects should be “dusted” with a vitamin supplement such as Nutrabol 2-3 times a week to ensure healthy bone development. Leopard Geckos should be fed as many insects as they can eat every day. Be careful not to over feed, as this can lead to a build up or excess bugs inside the Vivarium. To avoid this use the Exo Terra Cricket feeder.
Shedding
As with any reptile, leopard geckos will regularly shed the outer layer of their skin. To help them along, place some damp sphagnum moss inside one of their hides. The skin will usually come off in patches and is consumed by the gecko. Closely inspect the gecko afterwards to make sure it has all come off, paying extra attention to the feet and toes.
Our set-up includes:
Hatchling leopard gecko starter kit:
Exo Terra Faunarium
Exo Terra Heat Wave heat mat
2 Hides
Exo Terra water dish
Beech chippings
Vetark Nutrobal
Leopard Gecko book
Adult leopard gecko starter kit:
24” Vivarium
Habistat Dimmer Stat
Exo Terra Sun Glo Spot bulb and bulb guard
Beech chippings
2 Hides
Exo Terra water dish
Vetark Nutrobal
Leopard Gecko book
Recommended extras:
Arcadia single light controller with Exo Terra ReptiGlo 2.0 for a bright visual display
Plenty vines, branches and plants.
Another Care Sheet
Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularis)
The Leopard Gecko is found in the arid grasslands of Pakistan and India.
It normally grows to between 6 and 8 inches long.
They will become quite tame with handling and make excellent pets.
When choosing a Leopard gecko make sure that the eyes and skin are clear,
it has a robust body and that it is alert, active and responsive.
Housing
A 30" x 15" x 15" vivarium will house up to 3 geckos. The more geckos you keep the bigger the tank must be. Full spectrum lighting is not essential as geckos tend to hide up in the day and are more active at night. A 60 watt coloured bulb should be enough to heat the above tank to a basking area of about 87 – 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and then bring the temperature down to between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit for the night. This can be controlled by use of a dimmer switch or a dimmer thermostat. You will also need a thermometer inside the cage.
Bark makes an excellent substrate to put on the bottom of your tank and once they are older you can use a reptile sand.
Geckos like places to hide so kit out your tank with some rocks and artificial plants, which will give them a choice of hides.
A shed/hide box with a hole at the side for entry/exit and filled with moist vermiculite is ideally placed at the cooler end of the tank and is excellent for aiding the gecko to shed their skin. Make sure to keep this box moist, so give it a spray each day.
Small water bowl for drinking.
Feeding
Leopard Geckos like crickets; this is their main diet. Make sure that the crickets you feed are not too big for the animal to handle. A good measure is to feed crickets, which are no bigger than the size of the gecko’s head.
Prior to feeding your gecko you will need to gut load the crickets, which means, feed the crickets up so that they have some goodness to give the gecko once eaten. Things that can be used are orange slices, vegetables; tropical fish flakes and dried dog food. Feed the crickets 12 – 24 hours before you feed the gecko. You will need to dust the crickets with a calcium supplement prior to feeding. For young geckos you will need to feed twice daily and dust at every other feed and then from about 6 – 7 months old reduce it to twice weekly.
Only feed as many crickets that can be eaten in a 10 – 20 minute period, otherwise you will have a lot of crickets running around the cage and it has been known for crickets to damage sleeping geckos. Other insects that appeal to the gecko are mealworms, but only feed these about once a week, as they are not especially nutritious. It is advisable to snip/pull the head off the mealworm prior to feeding and offer them in a small shallow bowl. Wax worms are another favourite but only use these as a treat and feed them no more than about 2 or 3 each week. Once the gecko has reached adult size then feeding them a ‘pinkie’ (day old mouse) once a week will also help to keep them nice and healthy.
General Information
Always handle your Leopard gecko with care, especially the tail.This is the gecko’s defence mechanism and if pressure is applied to the tail then it can drop off. A new tail will grow again but will never be as nice or as long as the original.
Never keep two males together as they can fight, especially if there is a female around.
Spend time getting to know your gecko, don’t just watch, really observe as they will keep you fascinated for hours.
